Monday 26 January 2009

Soybean( Glycine Max L ) Cultivation part 2

Soybean( Glycine Max L ) Cultivation part 2

Lets we continue talk about soybean, we have talk about benefit of soybean crops and its history at part 1

Plant Media
1. Basically soybean want the condition of landfarm which do not too wet, but water remain to available or made available. Maize is indicator crop which both for soybean. Landfarm which is is good to be cultivated by maize, good is also cultivated by soybean

2. Soybean do not claim special landfarm structure as clauses grow. Even at less fertile farm condition and rather even sour also soybean can grow , as long as not suffused by water to cause the decaying of root. Soybean can grow good at various landfarm type, drainage and of good aeration enough landfarm

3. Compatible landfarms that is: alluvial, regosol, grumosol, and latosol of andosol. At landfarms of podsolik red turn yellow and landfarm concidering many quartz sands, growth of unfavourable soybean, except when given by organic manure addition or enough compost

4. New landfarms is first time cultivated by soybean, before all that required give by bacterium of Rhizobium, except landfarm which have cultivated by Vigna sinensis ( string bean). Soybean planted at chalky landfarm or ex- cultivated by paddy will give better result, cause of tekstur landfarm still good and only need fertilization by organic fertilizer

5. Soybean also require rich organic materials farm. Enough Organic materials in landfarm will improve repair process energy as well as is the source of food for microorganism, what finally will free element of nutrient for the growth of crop

6. Sandy landfarm can cultivate soybean, water and nutrient to crop for growth must enough. Landfarm concidering high hard, better be performed by repair the drainage system and aerasi so crop will not lack of oxygen and do not be suffused by big rain time water. To repair aeration , organic materials is vital importance manure

7. Tolerance acidity of landfarm as condition for grow

Height of Place of Varietas soybean have small seed, very compatible planted in the farm with height 0,5- 300 m from sea. While soybean variety have compatible big seed will better be planted in farm with height 300-500 m from sea level. Soybean usually will grow good at more than 500 m from the sea level .

Oke we will continue at next post
thanks







thanks to bantul

come to my other blog
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Soybean( Glycine Max L ) Cultivation part 1

Soybean( Glycine Max L ) Cultivation part 1
.
1. BRIEF HISTORY
Soybean is food crop in the form of bush which grow straightening. Wild type of soybean Ururiencis Glycine, is soybean degrading various soybean which we recognize now ( Max Glycine ( L) Merril). Coming to area form Manshukuo (North Chinese). In Indonesia, start at 17 th century as food crop and green manure. Spreading of soybean crop to Indonesia come from area of Manshukuo disseminate to area of Mansyuria: Japan (East Asia) and to other nations in America and African

2. TYPE OF CROP
Systematic way soybean crop shall be as follows: Family : Leguminosae, Subfamily : Papilionoidae, Gender : Glycine, Species : Glycine Max L. Soybean which grow wildly in South-East Asia cover about 40 type. Geographical spreading of soybean influence his type. There are 4 soybean type namely: type of Mansyuria, Japan, India, and Chinese. Elementaries determination of soybean varietas is according to:, seed, colour, and bar type.

3. BENEFIT OF CROP
Soybeanbean could be processed become soybean flour marginally can be divided to 2 especial benefit group, that is: processed to form of soybean protein and soybean oil. In the form of soybean protein can be used by food industry and be become: milk, vetsin, cakes, vegetation flesh and peppermint. Soybean also be used at non food industry like : paper, liquid paint, printing ink and textile. While process to form of soybean oil used in food industry and non food industry. Food Industry that used soybean oil to form gliserida to make cooking oil, other fat materials and margarine. While the other form lecithin to make: margarine, cake, ink, cosmetic, pharmacy and insectisida.

3. CULTIVATION CENTER
In one of the state part of United States, there are areal growth of soybean very wide and yield about 57 % world soybean production. In Indonesia, in this time soybean planted many at lowlands which not many aqueous, as in coastal area of North East Java, Central Java, West Java, Sulawesi North ( Gorontalo), Float, South Sumatra and Bali

5. PLANT CONDITION

Soybean crop most growing in areas which is have tropical climate to subtropical. As compatible climate barometer for soybean are when compatible for maize crop. Even soybean endurance better than maize. Soybean crop prefer dry climate than damp climate.

Soybean crop can grow either in area owning rainfall around 100-400 mm / month. While to get optimal result, soybean crop required rainfall between 100-200 mm / month .

Soybean crop need temperature between 21-34 degree of C, however optimum temperature for growth of soybean crop 23-27 degree C. At process germination of soybean seed need compatible temperature about30 degree C.

At the harvest moment soybean which happened at dry season will mbe better than at the rainy season, because having an effect on time ripening of seed and draining of result.


thanks to bantul

come to my other blog
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Thursday 22 January 2009

Tips Planting of Peanut

BRIEF HISTORY of Peanut

Peanut which in Indonesia initialy come from America continent. Inclusion come to Indonesia estimated to be brought by merchants of Spanyol,. In the 1863 HOLLE put English peanut and in 1864 SCHEFFER put Egypt peanut into Indonesia

TYPE Of CROP
In Indonesia there is 2 ( two ) type of peanut :

1. Straightening type. this Type Bean grow diametrical or a little to the above, there are fruits internodes near by clump, short generally and isn't it the fruit of in concern

2. Grow aside type . This type of growing toward aside, fairish especial bar of length, there are fruits internodes which nearby land and long lived generally

3. BENEFIT OF CROP
Crop Peanut can be exploited for the food of livestock, seed is of exploited as vegetation protein source , oil and others.

4.. SENTRA CULTIVATION OF PEANUT
Sentra cultivation Peanut production in Indonesia cover Java Yogyakarta, and Sulawesi

5. CONDITION TO GROW
Peanut crop is compatible with lowland which have height to under 500 m from sea level required . Peanut crop compatible with climate that have high temperature between25°C - 32°C, little damp ( rH 65 - 75 ), rainfall 800 mm - 1300 mm per year, open place
Cultivated Land for Peanut require land which have light structure ,like land of regosol, andosol, and latosol of alluvial. Peanut doesn’t need a rice field irrigated farm, all it need are wet rice field dependant to rain, cistern of rain dry farming., enough land fertility, good texture and have –PH between 6,0 - 6,5.

6. GUIDANCE OF CONDUCTING/PLANTING

a. Seed
1.Seed come from healthy crop, ad for disease and pest, quality of the seed of good and have high perity so that can germinate quickly and flatten
2. To be harvested on time, have old enough , do not break, put accross processing of bacillus and peel of seed
3. Having of old age and high result of nuts

b. Processing of Land farm
Processing of land conducted by tractor in 20- 30 cm deep or you can do it manual. Target of processing of landfarm is to improve and repair structure and aeration of landfarm to growth of root and suction then the crop can absorb nutrient better

c. Cultivation
Time planted, Time peanut planted at the non irigated dry field farm will be best at early of rainny season. Planting method of Cultivation conducted by using dibber in 3 cm by 2 seed item per hole and plant distance about 40 x cm 10 cm. Later;Then hole plant to be closed with land thinly.

Conservancy Of Crop
1. Fertilization . Fertilization conducted using manure of Urea, Phosphat and KCI with dose 60-90 kg/hectare of Urea, 60-90 kg/hectare of Phosphat and 50 Kg/hectareof KCI. Fertilization conducted by fertilize into left dibber hole beside hole right plant
2. Embroidering of Crop. Embroidering conducted by made hole plant newly at hole secondhand plant formerly. Intention of this embroidering is to maintain population
3. Mowing . Mowing is conducted by 2 times - First mowing conducted at thewhen the crop reach 21 day old after planting and the second mowing conducted at 40 day after planting.

Pest and Disease Of Peanut
1. Wilt Disease. Wilt Disease because of bacterium of Xanthomonas Solanacearum. In the day time sunshine time crop abrupt droop like hot water disimm, crop death dirrectly. Way of operation with crop innings
2. Disease Of Pock Leaf Disease of Pock because of mushroom of Cercospora personata. Pock generated at leaf upside brown**chocolate******* while side under black leaf. Is **pock******* of leaf sometime there are black spot of Conidiospora. This Mushroom arise at old age crop 40 - 50 day till 70 day. This mushroom can be controlled with Anthmcol or of Daconil
3. Disease of Selerotium. This Disease because of Selerotium rolfsii, damage of crop when timid weather. Mushroom attack at bar jetty, part of soft crop, generating black pocks. attacked crop wilt**wilting******* will and death. Operation : improve;repaired irrigating, so thatirrigating water can emit a stream of
4. Disease of Rust. This Disease because of Uromyces arachidae, attacking crop which still young cause leaf spot leaf chocolate become mongering. Operation of planted varitas which hold up
5. Pest of Empoasca. This Pest not too harm for peanut crop. Way of the operation of with spraying of Azodrin, Karphos or of lnsektisida the availableness.

thanks to : Kab. Bantul

Sunday 18 January 2009

Vegetable Culture by Setter

As a rule, we choose to grow bush beans rather than pole beans. I cannot make up my mind whether or not this is from sheer laziness. In a city backyard the tall varieties might perhaps be a problem since it would be difficult to get poles. But these running beans can be trained along old fences and with little urging will run up the stalks of the tallest sunflowers. So that settles the pole question. There is an ornamental side to the bean question. Suppose you plant these tall beans at the extreme rear end of each vegetable row. Make arches with supple tree limbs, binding them over to form the arch. Train the beans over these. When one stands facing the garden, what a beautiful terminus these bean arches make.

Beans like rich, warm, sandy soil. In order to assist the soil be sure to dig deeply, and work it over thoroughly for bean culture. It never does to plant beans before the world has warmed up from its spring chills. There is another advantage in early digging of soil. It brings to the surface eggs and larvae of insects. The birds eager for food will even follow the plough to pick from the soil these choice morsels. A little lime worked in with the soil is helpful in the cultivation of beans.

Bush beans are planted in drills about eighteen inches apart, while the pole-bean rows should be three feet apart. The drills for the bush limas should be further apart than those for the other dwarf beans say three feet. This amount of space gives opportunity for cultivation with the hoe. If the running beans climb too high just pinch off the growing extreme end, and this will hold back the upward growth.

Among bush beans are the dwarf, snap or string beans, the wax beans, the bush limas, one variety of which is known as brittle beans. Among the pole beans are the pole limas, wax and scarlet runner. The scarlet runner is a beauty for decorative effects. The flowers are scarlet and are fine against an old fence. These are quite lovely in the flower garden. Where one wishes a vine, this is good to plant for one gets both a vegetable, bright flowers and a screen from the one plant. When planting beans put the bean in the soil edgewise with the eye down.

Beets like rich, sandy loam, also. Fresh manure worked into the soil is fatal for beets, as it is for many another crop. But we will suppose that nothing is available but fresh manure. Some gardeners say to work this into the soil with great care and thoroughness. But even so, there is danger of a particle of it getting next to a tender beet root. The following can be done; Dig a trench about a foot deep, spread a thin layer of manure in this, cover it with soil, and plant above this. By the time the main root strikes down to the manure layer, there will be little harm done. Beets should not be transplanted. If the rows are one foot apart there is ample space for cultivation. Whenever the weather is really settled, then these seeds may be planted. Young beet tops make fine greens. Greater care should be taken in handling beets than usually is shown. When beets are to be boiled, if the tip of the root and the tops are cut off, the beet bleeds. This means a loss of good material. Pinching off such parts with the fingers and doing this not too closely to the beet itself is the proper method of handling.

There are big coarse members of the beet and cabbage families called the mangel wurzel and ruta baga. About here these are raised to feed to the cattle. They are a great addition to a cow's dinner.

The cabbage family is a large one. There is the cabbage proper, then cauliflower, broccoli or a more hardy cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi, a cabbage-turnip combination.

Cauliflower is a kind of refined, high-toned cabbage relative. It needs a little richer soil than cabbage and cannot stand the frost. A frequent watering with manure water gives it the extra richness and water it really needs. The outer leaves must be bent over, as in the case of the young cabbage, in order to get the white head. The dwarf varieties are rather the best to plant.

Kale is not quite so particular a cousin. It can stand frost. Rich soil is necessary, and early spring planting, because of slow maturing. It may be planted in September for early spring work.

Brussels sprouts are a very popular member of this family. On account of their size many people who do not like to serve poor, common old cabbage will serve these. Brussels sprouts are interesting in their growth. The plant stalk runs skyward. At the top, umbrella like, is a close head of leaves, but this is not what we eat. Shaded by the umbrella and packed all along the stalk are delicious little cabbages or sprouts. Like the rest of the family a rich soil is needed and plenty of water during the growing period. The seed should be planted in May, and the little plants transplanted into rich soil in late July. The rows should be eighteen inches apart, and the plants one foot apart in the rows.

Kohlrabi is a go-between in the families of cabbage and turnip. It is sometimes called the turnip-root cabbage. Just above the ground the stem of this plant swells into a turnip-like vegetable. In the true turnip the swelling is underground, but like the cabbage, kohlrabi forms its edible part above ground. It is easy to grow. Only it should develop rapidly, otherwise the swelling gets woody, and so loses its good quality. Sow out as early as possible; or sow inside in March and transplant to the open. Plant in drills about two feet apart. Set the plants about one foot apart, or thin out to this distance. To plant one hundred feet of drill buy half an ounce of seed. Seed goes a long way, you see. Kohlrabi is served and prepared like turnip. It is a very satisfactory early crop.

Before leaving the cabbage family I should like to say that the cabbage called Savoy is an excellent variety to try. It should always have an early planting under cover, say in February, and then be transplanted into open beds in March or April. If the land is poor where you are to grow cabbage, then by all means choose Savoy.

Carrots are of two general kinds: those with long roots, and those with short roots. If long-rooted varieties are chosen, then the soil must be worked down to a depth of eighteen inches, surely. The shorter ones will do well in eight inches of well-worked sandy soil. Do not put carrot seed into freshly manured land. Another point in carrot culture is one concerning the thinning process. As the little seedlings come up you will doubtless find that they are much, much too close together. Wait a bit, thin a little at a time, so that young, tiny carrots may be used on the home table. These are the points to jot down about the culture of carrots.

The cucumber is the next vegetable in the line. This is a plant from foreign lands. Some think that the cucumber is really a native of India. A light, sandy and rich soil is needed I mean rich in the sense of richness in organic matter. When cucumbers are grown outdoors, as we are likely to grow them, they are planted in hills. Nowadays, they are grown in hothouses; they hang from the roof, and are a wonderful sight. In the greenhouse a hive of bees is kept so that cross-fertilization may go on.

But if you intend to raise cucumbers follow these directions: Sow the seed inside, cover with one inch of rich soil. In a little space of six inches diameter, plant six seeds. Place like a bean seed with the germinating end in the soil. When all danger of frost is over, each set of six little plants, soil and all, should be planted in the open. Later, when danger of insect pests is over, thin out to three plants in a hill. The hills should be about four feet apart on all sides.

Before the time of Christ, lettuce was grown and served. There is a wild lettuce from which the cultivated probably came. There are a number of cultivated vegetables which have wild ancestors, carrots, turnips and lettuce being the most common among them. Lettuce may be tucked into the garden almost anywhere. It is surely one of the most decorative of vegetables. The compact head, the green of the leaves, the beauty of symmetry all these are charming characteristics of lettuces.

As the summer advances and as the early sowings of lettuce get old they tend to go to seed. Don't let them. Pull them up. None of us are likely to go into the seed-producing side of lettuce. What we are interested in is the raising of tender lettuce all the season. To have such lettuce in mid and late summer is possible only by frequent plantings of seed. If seed is planted every ten days or two weeks all summer, you can have tender lettuce all the season. When lettuce gets old it becomes bitter and tough.

Melons are most interesting to experiment with. We suppose that melons originally came from Asia, and parts of Africa. Melons are a summer fruit. Over in England we find the muskmelons often grown under glass in hothouses. The vines are trained upward rather than allowed to lie prone. As the melons grow large in the hot, dry atmosphere, just the sort which is right for their growth, they become too heavy for the vine to hold up. So they are held by little bags of netting, just like a tennis net in size of mesh. The bags are supported on nails or pegs. It is a very pretty sight I can assure you. Over here usually we raise our melons outdoors. They are planted in hills. Eight seeds are placed two inches apart and an inch deep. The hills should have a four foot sweep on all sides; the watermelon hills ought to have an allowance of eight to ten feet. Make the soil for these hills very rich. As the little plants get sizeable say about four inches in height reduce the number of plants to two in a hill. Always in such work choose the very sturdiest plants to keep. Cut the others down close to or a little below the surface of the ground. Pulling up plants is a shocking way to get rid of them. I say shocking because the pull is likely to disturb the roots of the two remaining plants. When the melon plant has reached a length of a foot, pinch off the end of it. This pinch means this to the plant: just stop growing long, take time now to grow branches. Sand or lime sprinkled about the hills tends to keep bugs away.

The word pumpkin stands for good, old-fashioned pies, for Thanksgiving, for grandmother's house. It really brings more to mind than the word squash. I suppose the squash is a bit more useful, when we think of the fine Hubbard, and the nice little crooked-necked summer squashes; but after all, I like to have more pumpkins. And as for Jack-o'-lanterns why they positively demand pumpkins. In planting these, the same general directions hold good which were given for melons. And use these same for squash-planting, too. But do not plant the two cousins together, for they have a tendency to run together. Plant the pumpkins in between the hills of corn and let the squashes go in some other part of the garden.

About the Author

Setter writes for ArticlesDirect at
http://www.articlesdirect.co.uk

3 Tree Fertilization Techniques by David Merriman

Landscape and urban trees typically grow in soils that do not contain sufficient elements due to disruption of the nutrient cycle by pavement, buildings and roads. Also, leaves, the driver of the nutrient cycle, are raked up before decomposing and micro-organism's can't break stuff down.

The key to tree fertilization is distributing the right amount of nutrients at the right time. Macro-nutrients are nutrients that trees need the most and is frequently deficient in a tree. Signs are reduced growth, smaller leaves and the yellowing of leaves. Secondary nutrients or nutrients needed in moderate amounts include phosphorus, potassium and sulfur. Micronutrients are nutrients that trees need in small amounts.

Many times it can be hard to tell what nutrient is deficient as the symptoms may overlap. However, it is worth finding as you may be wasting fertilizer on a tree that needs something different. If you see leaf discoloration or other unhealthy signs on the bark, test the tree to get an idea of what might be missing.

Tree fertilization application techniques vary based on the foliage, tree condition, the time of year and your preference for using "greener" techniques.

1. Surface Application

The fertilizer is broadcast over the ground surface using a spreader. The advantage is it's ease, with very little special equipment required. The disadvantage is lots of residual chemicals on your lawn.

2. Sub-surface Application

Sub-surface fertilization techniques are necessary when a tree is surrounded by turf grass or to limit chemical exposure. Turf grass absorbs nutrients more readily than tree root systems so the fertilizer must be applied below turf level. Subsurface fertilization techniques are also necessary where runoff water is common. Two common techniques are drill hole and injection.

The drill hole method involves drilling holes around the tree in concentric circles. Holes should extend to the drip line. This allows you to put fertilizer deep enough that turf grass won't reach it but shallow enough so it doesn't leach (drain away) especially during the rainy months of spring.

Liquid injection uses fertilizer, dissolved or suspended in water. The solution is injected into the soil using a soil injection system. Advantages are better distribution and the benefit of adding water directly into the root zone. A disadvantage is liquid injection can create dark, vigorous patches of grass. I sometimes recommend a lawn aeration and fertilization in conjunction with a liquid injection fertilization to combat that.

3. Foliar Application and Tree Injection

This involves spraying everything with FDA approved chemicals. Which is OK, as long as we remember that DDT was a federally approved chemical at one point! Foliar application is a short term fix to correct minor elemental deficiencies of micro nutrients. Typically spraying the leaves works best in spring, right before a period of active growth.

Implants and injections are for minor nutrient deficiencies. Tree implants and injections provide a systemic application and can be combined with insect control. The main advantage is that it completely eliminates any residue outside of the tree. However, because it involves creating holes in the tree it is limited to a once a year process and trees have to be large enough to handle it. I always look to see if a tree is water stressed before doing this.

Finally, trees may not require additional fertilization at all. Over fertilization can burn out leaves or cause a tree to grow too quickly resulting in frequent pruning or removal. In Denver or other dry climates, homeowners may fertilize a tree that actually just needs a deep root watering.


About the Author

David Merriman owns ArborScape, a tree service in Denver, CO He is an ISA Certified Arborist and writes about lawn care and tree care.tips fertilization,

Organic Fertilizer Are They Feasible? by Steve Millerman

Organic gardening could be an excellent pursuit, more so for individuals who love gardening as an thought. This is not something, that most people take up, so you should think of yourself to be lucky one, if you are able to grow things and add to nature. Organic gardening has assorted aspects to it, which you need to be familiar with, for example, what type of soil you have, what you want to grow on them, and how you would tend for the plants.

It may sound complicated enough for the beginners but if you have been noticed as the one with a green finger and you've already perfected you skills on this, then you might as well try out the organic way of gardening. Firstly, this method of horticulture is different from the regular means of horticulture as the amount of effort needed could be nearly double.

The crucial rule behind organic gardening is that it uses only natural merchandise. This will include the essential components such as the fertilizer and the pesticides. It is believed that the earth provides all that can be needed to produce anything in the organic way of gardening. These could be needed for just anything that you wish to produce, including flowers, vegetables or any other greens. Hopefully you are getting what we are trying to say, and that is this is one way to work in alignment with nature.

Organic fertilizer are they feasible?

In case you doubt if there is ever such a thing, you would be surprised to know that you can produce it yourself. You can actually perform composting on the waste found in your garden. Things that you would need are fallen leaves and twigs and animal manure but it would count of the type used and other elements.

Organic Pesticides

It is not recommended to use synthetic pesticides in organic gardening. But if you can't afford to pick the insects one by one by your bare hands, then you can go to your local food market store and ask for an organic pesticide that is available commercially. The traditional way is to keep a watch on your garden and as soon as some worms and other insects are found, kill them. Go for organic pesticide, when things tend to go out of hand and it is no longer manageable. You can also try to bring in the animals that feed upon those pests. This way, you'll have some help in picking those pests up and this also helps the other animals fulfill their hunger.

As is evident, all these things take up a lot of time and unless you can give as much time to this hobby, or find someone who can partner the obligations, it is wise to drop the idea altogether till such times that you are more organized with manpower and time. Organic gardening is a laborious process so you need to be prepared to face the hardship. When you are feeling down and out during your gardening adventure, just think of the benefits you are repaying to nature. This is your way of paying back what nature has bestowed on you since the day you were born.

About the Author

Steve Millerman is a specialist in gardening. If you want more information about gardening, visit gardening info.

Emergency Food Storage: 5 Essential Tips For Storing Food Reserves by Lisa Carr

Are you taking steps to procure food while it is still affordable? According to the Agriculture Department as reported by Reuters, "U.S. consumers should brace for the biggest increase in food prices in nearly 20 years in 2008, and even more pain next year (2009) due to surging meat and produce prices."
Are you braced? If you are one of the "smart" ones and have started to purchase bulk foods, grains, cereals, etc. and have started a home food storage program, make sure you implement the following tips to ensure your food stays dry, fresh, and insect/ pest free.

SANITATION Whether you are canning or simply storing bulk grains and cereals, be sure to use the upmost care in cleanliness. Containers should be clean and sterilized before putting any food into them. If you are using plastic buckets or barrels, be sure they are "food grade". You can sterilize these containers using a diluted bleach solution. After you have sterilized the containers, make sure the containers are thoroughly dried before putting food into them.

AIR TIGHT! Oxygen is what causes food to deteriorate. Therefore, it is imperative that you keep air out. In canning, this is done by ensuring you have a properly sealed lid. In bulk food storage, this can be accomplished by filling your bucket/barrel as near to the top as possible and then having a good lid to make an airtight seal. Oxygen absorbers or dry ice can be placed inside the container to help ensure the absence of oxygen.

CONTROLLED TEMPERATURE It is important to store your food at the correct temperature, and preferably in a cool, dark space. At all costs, avoid food being frozen, especially your canned goods in glass jars. Equally important is to store your food in an area where the temperature does not get above 50 degrees for bulk foods...insects and bugs become active above this temperature. Ideally, you canned foods should be stored in temperatures that do not go above 70 degrees.

ACCURATE INVENTORY Keep an accurate record of what has been stored and when it was stored or canned. Another helpful key is to keep a record of how much of an item you have on hand. You don't need to double or triple up on some items, and then not have another item at all.

ROTATION Be sure to rotate your food storage, using the oldest items up first. Keep dates on the lids or on the containers themselves.

By implementing these simple, yet essential steps, you and your family can enjoy the peace of mind of having adequate food supplies at your home. You will also be protecting your food investment by keeping your food free of insects, mold, etc. By starting a home food storage program today, you will also be hedging yourself against higher and higher food costs, or even a food shortage. Don't wait. Start today. Keep your food storage safe.

About the Author

Lisa Carr is a certified Health and Phys. Ed. Instructor with a Master's in Health and P.E. She has lived off the "grid" for several years where she has honed her homestead skills and self-sufficiency strategies. She would love to share her tips and survival strategies at her blog. Please visit today!

History of Agriculture by Christopher Schwebius

When we talk of history of agriculture we talk of centuries gone by and a different era in and around 10000 BC. The most interesting part is that agriculture actually started from a region, which now is a dessert. Far back in 8000 BC farming started from Iran all around to Iraq further on to Syria all along the valley of the Nile, then Israel to India from the Nile to Danube in Europe and then to the Indus and Ganges region.

Agriculture is the biggest cultural innovation that happened years ago. Man was basically born a hunter who would be roaming from place to place. And would be eating whatever nature provided them with and some animals and birds too. Agriculture gave man a base and they were no more wanderers. And also they got more to eat than only what they got from the forest.

Then man learnt to tame and domesticate animals and bingo . . . they hit jackpot. You know the pig has been domesticated since last 9000 years. Wow isn't that a wonder. And then came sowing of seeds, growing and harvesting too. And so came wheat and barley and other cereals. The word cereal is actually the name of the roman goddess Ceres which means grain in general. Man learnt how to grow crops and for better growth they started removing weeds, which gave a boom to the crops.

The history of agriculture has shown us a period where man started to clear up forests for light and killing animals that harmed their crops. So then came an efficient way of living, which was under control, and then they started settling down and that gave rise to farming villages. From the Neolithic times people continued to live in farming villages till the industrial age.

Man was attacked by loads of diseases and famines and floods and also wars that wiped out generations. The history of agriculture takes us to pottery and cooking and craft later on so man then had proper food to eat and made homes too. Made villages and farming a lifestyle. Man settled around Ireland around 7000BC. They used trees for wood to burn and build. Agriculture became a strong base. In 4000BC farming began here. They used Stone Age technology for basic living.

As the history of agriculture grew over the years from here to the Bronze Age and through the Iron Age, they also domesticated the cattle, sheep and the horses too. This was like a major invention and led agriculture places.

Then the history of agriculture grew in the coming centuries and made amazing progress. And major changes overtook this field. Farmers became high tech and biotechnology ruled. Man started creating fields in agriculture and it grew in bounds and leaps. Genetics also took over and laboratories manufactured crops and seeds to suit human needs.

History of agriculture is so vast and detailed and so interesting. Must be explored to the fullest. It has grown from the Stone Age to the bronze age to the industrial age to biotechnology agriculture has taken the world in a storm and ruled ever since. http://www.whyisagricultureimportant.com.

About the Author

Christopher Schwebius is an entrepreneur who seeks out sharply defined, specifically focused topics to research. Upon finishing his research he provides relevant, un-biased information to his readers based on his discoveries and/or personal experiences. One of his latest ongoing projects can be viewed at http://www.whyisagricultureimportant.com.

Maize crop


Maize is crop of holtikultura which grow well at tropic climate like and afrika and asia. This crop the core important yielding fruit as food crop or food-stuff. Former maize is only exploited the fruit of as food crop and food-stuff as livestock food, but now in various state start to be developed to make fuel and biodiesel and other fuel from maize crop. Crop maize production in the world progressively abundance and entangle various new varieties. In Indonesia generally maize planted at dry season after farmer have planted paddy. Rice field processed and made to small maps with small ditch around its for the drainage system. Cultivation conducted made puncture hole which in content one or two feed and covered with land ground. Fertilization conducted twice that is at crop 20 day old with rich organic fertilizer like RABOK made by PT. Kreasi Alam Lestari that rich of nitrogen and phosphat , and the second at 35 day old with rich manure of potassium and nitrogen to start flowering. Inflorescent maize and bear fruit after 50 day, and can be harvested at 110 day old.

Who is better.. We or Monkey in Nature Problem

Who is better.. We or Monkey in Nature Problem

If you read newspaper news or or watch television almost every day we find damage of nature happened everywhere. We Can’t deny that this damage of this nature happened by act of human being, yes like this us. Mr Darwin in our evolution theory said that we are clan of monkey ( is it that correct ...?) but in the reality worse us of kera...Coba look into the mirror hi..hi... monkey have never destroyed forest ..but are we ?? fruit eaten..., wood is also eaten... after forest used up so we have flood, who is wrong ? If you read news concerning indonesia some of this month, a lot of disasters happened of landslide,flood, forest fire and others. All do not get out of the act from carelessness of human being with the greed and ambition , so that bother balance of nature..Oh...Human have been made by God what was required to life, but we can’t just look after those facility well.. so how we can tell our self is bright if we can’t take care what the god have given to us, and finnaly ho can we proud of our self when we go to the zoo and meet our brothers ( I mean… monkey). Thanks you
See you next time

Monday 12 January 2009

Paddy Fertilization

An economic and good paddy Fertilization brooding embrace and right time, if not hence effectiveness of fertilization will lower. Following is some tips able to be used in fertilizations of paddy
1. Best fertilization is [at] paddy 7 - 14 day after a period of/to planting, labouring can fertilize after first mowing
2. Paying attention level irrigate [at] rice field, muddy better but [do] not be suffused [by] too high water
3. [Do/Conduct] fertilization with fomentation dose urea or [about/around] 150-300 singk / ha and add complete organic manure [of] micro and macro element like ] RABOK PADDY Produced By PT. Kreasi Alam Lestari
4. Don'T use liquid fertilizer ( forgiveness...) but so far no one can prove have a good success atwet farm like paddy ... forgiveness because my knowledge is limited and i will continue next time..


Tips & Trik Pemupukan padi

Pemupukan padi yang baik dan ekonomis memelukan kejelian dan waktu yang tepat, apabila tidak maka efektivitas dari pemupukan akan rendah. Berikut ini adalah beberapa tips yang dapat digunakan dalam pemupukan padi:
1. Pemupukan terbaik adalah pada umur padi 7 - 14 hari setelah masa tanam, usahakan dapat memupuk setelah penyiangan pertama.
2. Perhatikan level air pada sawah, lebih baik becek tetapi tidak tergenang air terlalu tinggi
3. Lakukan pemupukan dengan urea dosis anjuran atau sekitar 150-300 kg/ha dan tambahkan pupuk organik lengkap unsur makro dan mikro seperti RABOK PADI yang diproduksi PT. Kreasi Alam Lestari
4. Jangan menggunakan pupuk cair merk apapun ( maaf...) tetapi sejauh ini belum ada yang benar benar bisa membuktikan sukses di lahan basah seperti padi

semoga bermanffaat... maaf karena pengetahuanku terbatas neh

agriculture and fertilizer indonesia


< MicrosoftInternetExplorer4

Indonesia is state very wide of agriculture area , is so that Indonesia known as [agricultural country, though still many people less of ] food and nutrient .Year to year since green revolution start at 1966 Indonesia put into use chemical manure with very high dose.This Phenomena take place to have year year. Chemical manure specially urea remain to be farmer favorite, even in farm 1 paddy hectare require 1 ton of urea. This matter cause damage of agriculture farm hard enough, no longer progressively fertile farms which only by crop giration without manure, crop still able to grow optimally. To overcome this problem we need real government concerning about fertilizer policy, is true that human have to make friends with nature, using friendly natural manure will save the environment.

The alterntive that may work well to solve the fertilizer problem is :

  1. Always concern about soil health ( Physic,Chemical, and Biologycal) Properties
  2. Use Organic Fertilizer as well beside the chemical Fertillizer
  3. Use Organic peptiside if posible
  4. Don’t Event thing that the soils is yours, but it is belong to your children, don’t destroy it but keep it healty
  5. Don’t Use any chemical nutrient over dose because it caouse the soil hardly and increase the acidity
  6. Believe that when we make a friendship will nature, the nature will give us more and more

Come on…. Its time to make a change !!!! don’t let our soil destroyed by our ambisions

Give the best for our children..

Bravo … I love farmer




Indonesia adalah negara yang sangat luas areal pertaniannya, sehingga dikenal sebagai negara agraris meskipun jujur masih banyak rakyat yang kurang gizi dan makanan. Bertahun tahun sejak revolusi hijau tahun 1966 Indonesia mulai menggunakan pupuk kimia dengan dosis yang sangat tinggi.Phenomena ini berlangsung bertahun tahun sampai sekarang. Pupuk kimia khususnya urea tetap menjadi favorit petani, bahkan dalam lahan 1 hektar padi membutuhkan 1 ton urea.

Hal ini menyebabkan kerusakan lahan pertanian yang cukup parah, semakin lama semakin sedikit lahan yang subur yang hanya dengan merotasi tanaman tanpa pupuk, tanaman tetap bisa tumbuh optimal.

Untuk mengatasi hal ini diperlukan langkah nyata pemerintah tentang pupuk, apalagi pada beberapa tahun terakhir sering sekali terjadi kelangkaan pupuk. Memang sudah waktunya manusia bersahabat dengan alam, menggunakan pupuk alami yang ramah lingkungan, dan sangat diperlukan kesadaran berbagai pihak untuk melaksanakannya.

Alternatif yang dapat dilakukan untuk mengatasi kondisi ini adalah :

  1. Selalu memperhatikan dan memelihara kesehatan tanah baik secara fisik, kimia, maupun biologi tanah.
  2. Gunakan pupuk organic sebagai pendamping pupuk kimia
  3. Gunakan peptisida organic bila memungkinkan
  4. Jangan berfikir lahan ini milik anda, tetapi adalah titipan dari orang tua anda untuk anak anda
  5. Jangan gunakan pupuk kimia over dosis, karena akan merusak tanah
  6. Percaya bahwa dengan bersahabat dengan alam , maka alam akan memberi kita lebih banyak dan bermanfaat.

Ayo….saatnya melakukan perubahan